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Q:
Why do enzyme/bacteria products work best? Why are they better than disinfectants?
A:
Simple. They remove the urine, feces, and vomit from the carpet, completely
and permanently, by consuming the food source . By removing the
food source, (urine, feces, vomit) both nature's bacteria, and the genetically
engineered bacteria
you introduce by injecting, have nothing left to feed on. Both strains simply
die off and evaporate. Disinfectants may kill nature's bacteria, but they
don't remove the food source, and new bacteria eventually start feeding
again. That's why homeowners who try retail products containing hospital
grade disinfectants usually complain that the odor re-appears three or four
weeks later, or when there are moist or humid days. The residual of the
disinfectant has worn off, and nature's bacteria are feeding again.
Q:
What is urine comprised of?
A: Urine is comprised of a concentration of waste products
of metabolism such as urea, creatine and uric acid,
along with detoxified substances. It may also contain considerable
amounts of sodium chloride and other electrolytes.
A component called urobilogen gives it it's characteristic
yellow color.
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Q:
Why does urine smell?
A:
Fresh urine does not actually have an unpleasant odor, but the ammoniacal odor
of stale (old) urine is due to bacterial decomposition of the urea in the urine,
as well as the bacterial excrement itself. Nature's bacteria will continue to
feed as long as there is a food source, and moisture. That is why the ammonia
odor becomes stronger on humid days, or soon after a carpet has been wet cleaned.
Q:
Why should urine be treated as soon as possible?
A:
Left untreated, you may wind up with a difficult to remove yellow stain, or
worse, a dye loss. Over time urine salts become highly alkaline, and can bleach
out your primary carpet dyes, starting with the weaker red and blue dyes, so
that you are left with a yellowish or off white discoloration. At this point,
your only options are to dye, or section (patch) the carpet.
Q:
Are enzymes safe?
A:
Yes, they are simply catalysts, which speed up chemical reactions.
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Q:
Does the age of the animal affect the degree of odor?
A:
Very much so. In young animals the kidneys are functioning perfectly, filtering
much of the waste out of the urine. An older animals kidneys don't filter as
well, and the odor becomes more pronounced.
Q:
Does the type, sex, and eating habits of the animal influence the degree of
odors and stains?
A: Yes. Typically male cats are the worst offenders,
because of their high protein diet, and the male hormone
testosterone in their urine. Female cats would rank
next, followed by dogs. A dog's diet is usually more
carbohydrate than protein, and this usually translates
to less severe problems.
Q:
How do I locate the urine?
A:
The professionals use black lights and sensors to locate the urine deposits.
Not having these tools at your disposal leaves you with sight, smell, and of
course something that happens to most of us - stepping barefoot on a new one!
Usually we find male pet deposits near furniture or walls, and female pets generally
out in the open areas, although this may not always be the case. |
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Q:
Why is pet odor so difficult to remove?
A:
Pet urine is chemically very unique as it forms both acids and alkalis over
time. Pet urine consists primarily of water, yellow pigment, urea, uric acid,
cholesterol, enzymes, and traces of other chemicals. It leaves the body in the
form of uric acid, but, eventually, due to rapid bacterial action, the acid
nature turns to a highly alkaline compound and has that characteristic smell
of ammonia. The bacteria keeps working over time and this putrid mass causes
the odor to get stronger over the months and years.
Q:
What can the pet owner do?
A: Before you try doing anything other than blotting up the
urine, phone for Free Advice , on how to handle your problem without
causing irreversible damage to your rugs or upholstery. Many minor
problems respond to a "do-it-yourself" solution
if done with the proper advice.You must be careful that you do not
make the problem worse! In most cases, it is not wise to pour any liquids
onto the stain. Liquids can dissolve the urine crystals and drive them
deep into the pad and even into the sub-floor. Even a brand new underpad
and carpet will not usually solve the odor problem. Once the "new" smell
of the carpet and underpad go away, the urine smell will be back,
especially in hot, humid weather. We suggest that you blot up any
urine residue with regular absorbent paper towels. You can then dampen
a cotton cloth with regular detergent such as dish detergent and
blot the affected area. Do Not pour any liquid into it.
NOTE: bleach usually takes the
color out of rugs and upholstery. Do not drop any bleach solutions,
no matter how mild, on any fabrics or rugs. Most liquids will "water
mark" upholstery. Do not put any moisture on your upholstery.
Q: Why does it only smell
in the warm weather?
A: When the urine dries, it forms microscopic sized salt crystals
due to the action of the bacteria growing. As humidity and heat rise,
these crystals absorb the heat and humidity and start to give off gases,
producing that ammonia-like smell. Only the proper cleaning and odor
destroying techniques that have been developed can eliminate these
odors.
Q:
Will the stain disappear?
A:
Any stain that goes in with the urine is removed. Unfortunely, the uric acid,
and or alkaline bacterial contamination, can be so severe that they work on
the dye cells of the fabric and cause a permanent discoloration that can not
be reversed. A quick response to the problem is needed to neutralize the Acids
so that Fiber damage is reduced.
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